Overcoming Sewing Motor Weakness Disorder
By David Trumble

Most of us, live our lives with certain expectations.

We expect the light to turn on when we turn the switch. We expect our cars to go when we press down on the accelerator.

So, when we press down on the foot control of our sewing machines we expect the sewing machine to work.
At times, we get to thinking of your sewing machine like a friend or in a sense like a real person. We talk to it. We touch it. We listen to it. Sometimes, it may appear that our friend is stricken with an infection or disease. This is especially true when we press down on the power and very little happens.

When you press down on your foot control, does your sewing machine hesitate? Does it groan a little? Does it turn ever so slowly or maybe not at all?

If so, then your sewing machine may have the dreaded Sewing Machine Motor Fatigue Syndrome..

You can determine if this is your problem fairly quickly with a few basic tests.

You set up your sewing machine and are ready to sew, but when you press down on the foot pedal the machine barely moves at all. It is as though the machine is tired from a long hard summer. No matter how hard you press down on that foot control; no matter how much power you put in; the sewing machine just drags along.

The two most common sources of such a problem are the potential for a bind in the sewing machine mechanism itself and problems in the motor.

To check for binding, turn the hand wheel by hand and feel for any undue resistance. If the machine is stiff, your problem may be the mechanism. If the machine moves freely, it is probably a problem with the motor.

The AC motor in your sewing machine or mounted behind the head of your machine, will often accumulate debris inside. This debris may consist of partially burned carbon deposits, dust and dirt, and old lubricants. Gradually, this debris takes its toll on the operation of the motor.

You do not need to be an expert on motors, to understand how deposits of debris can make it more and more difficult for the motor to perform as expected. Over time, the motor loses its ability to work properly and may even fail to turn at all.

One solution to this problem is to remove the deposits by actually burning them away. By running the motor at full throttle for several minutes, it is often possible to do just that.

Follow this procedure: In the center of the hand wheel is a break that causes the machine to turn when the hand wheel turns. Release it so the hand wheel moves freely without turning the machine. Hold down the power pedal using by hand or use a clamp or weight to hold it down. The motor should slowly begin to turn. If not carefully turn the hand wheel while applying electricity to the motor to help the motor turn. Once the motor is turning, Keep it turning at full speed for about five minutes. Allow it to cool and test it again.

Attend the machine as long as you have it going. Watch out for extreme heat, sparks, or smoke from the motor.

The motor burn is often very effective in burning off the old carbon deposits, debris, and gunk. Essentially, you are heating up the motor to melt away and burn away the debris. In the process, you may find that the motor gets overly hot, excessive smoke begins billowing from the motor, or sparks may fly from it. Be very careful not to let these become problematic. Shut down anytime you sense, the burn is getting out of control.

In some cases, the motor burn does not work. The damage to the motor is too extensive. In such cases, you may remove the motor brushes and replace them. You may disassemble the motor housing and clean away the gunk from the contact points and armature. If you do so, beware. Using solvents in electrical appliances can be extremely dangerous. Before applying electricity to any motor make certain it is 100% dry and free of anything that might ignite, smolder, or otherwise cause harm.

Usually, you can fix the Sewing Machine Motor Fatigue Syndrome with a ten minute motor burn or service.

Experience the excitement and satisfaction of Sewing Machine Repair. Author David Trumble teaches how to repair sewing machines like a pro in his in depth instructional courses. Check out his free users course now.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/David_Trumble/52340
http://EzineArticles.com/?Overcoming-Sewing-Motor-Weakness-Disorder&id=4265224

7 Critical Tips to Sewing Sheer Roman Shades - How to Sew Sheer Fabrics

7 Critical Tips to Sewing Sheer Roman Shades - How to Sew Sheer Fabrics
By Jennifer Thoden

Image of sheer red Roman shades by Sarah Stierch (originally posted to Flickr as Independence Hall) [CC BY-SA 2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

A sheer roman shade is lovely way to add softness to your window along with some privacy without blocking out the light. Sheer roman shades look terrific layered with drapery panels... and you can even layer them under lined-fabric roman shades.

But with any sheer fabric treatment... sewing sheers is a challenge all on its own. Below you'll find 7 sewing tips that you can use to sew sheer fabrics plus how to be successful sewing a sheer roman shade.

1. Use a sharp #8 or 9 sewing machine needle.
Use a thin and sharp sewing machine needle... and make sure it's a new needle.

2. Lightweight thread
Use lightweight thread... like fine cotton-covered polyester thread, or lingerie thread. . The more compatible your thread is to your fabric the better.

3. Sew a french seam
If you need to piece multiple widths of fabric to get to the width you require... sew a french seam instead of a standard seam. A french seam will enclose the raw edges of the seam and give a clean appearance.

4. Iron on light weight interfacing for the seam allowances
Iron on interfacing for sheers will definitely make your sewing go smoother. There interfaces to use on the entire sheer fabric... or you can get thinner interfacing for just the seam allowances. If you don't feel comfortable ironing interfacing to your entire face fabric, then iron it on to the seam allowances. This will give your side seams some shape plus make it much easier to sew a clean seam.

5. Loosen thread tension
If you're fabric starts to pucker or gather, loosen your thread tension a bit. If possible, lower your pressure foot a little bit too.

6. TEST TEST TEST
Test your stitch settings on scrap fabric. Make sure you fold your sheer fabric in 2 or 3 layers to mimic your hems. If your stitching looks good, then you're read to sew! But if the stitching is off... then you can keep testing without ruining your roman shade.

7. Sewing rings along side seams

You may be inclined to sew a standard flat roman shade... but with a sheer, you may come up with an undesirable result. Mainly because you'll have visible tacking from sewing the shade rings and you'll see the lift cord and rings through the shade. If you don't want this, I recommend sewing a relaxed roman shade. Simply sew your rings up the side seams only. Your shade will swag in the center, but your sheer will be clean in the center. A relaxed roman shade is an ideal style for sheer fabrics.

If you're set on sewing flat roman shades, you can always sew your rings on like normal... but a more contemporary idea is to install small metal grommets where you would have sewn rings on.

Want to learn more about making roman shades? Instantly download step by step illustrated instructions and watch videos on How To Make Roman Shades at How To Make Roman Shades
Instantly download the ebook How To Make Roman Shades at Making Roman Shades
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Jennifer_Thoden/23476
http://EzineArticles.com/?7-Critical-Tips-to-Sewing-Sheer-Roman-Shades---How-to-Sew-Sheer-Fabrics&id=2149089