Where to Find Reliable Wholesale Upholstery Suppliers

You need a reliable upholstery supplier in order to run a successful upholstery shop. Try these sources for finding good upholstery suppliers.

 

After finishing upholstery training and finding the right location for your upholstery shop, you will need to find good suppliers. When setting up a small business such as an upholstery shop, it can be hard to find the right suppliers. I tried all of the methods listed during my years as a professional upholsterer, and each method served the purpose of leading me to a supplier who provided the wholesale materials needed to complete the job.

Where to Find Upholstery Suppliers

• Word of mouth - Check with other upholsterers to see if they are willing to share names of their suppliers. Some will be willing to share, while others may want to keep their fabric sources a secret. If the first shop manager you contact does not want to share the information, contact another one. The benefits of this approach are that some managers will go as far as giving you the phone number and address of the supplier. You can get a look at the quality of materials from different suppliers. Finally, some people like to talk about it when they have a bad experience with a business, so you can use this method to weed out unreliable upholstery suppliers.
• Internet auction sites - Start by checking the seller's rating and comments from past customers if you are considering buying upholstery supplies or tools from an Internet auction site. Avoid sellers with poor reviews. As long as you are careful in researching the seller before committing to the purchase, you can save a lot of money on upholstery materials, sometimes even going below wholesale prices. The main drawback of buying this way is you might have a hard time returning or matching the fabric if you run into a problem.
• Trade and specialty magazines - Trade magazines are loaded with articles about other shops, new techniques, and new products plus where to get them, and finally advertisements placed by hopeful suppliers. You can use the provided contact information to request samples or swatch books and to get information about setting up an account. Specialty magazines contain similar information and ads, so do not overlook them as a source if your shop specializes in a specific type of upholstery.
• Internet search engines - If none of these other approaches for finding an upholstery supplier fill the bill for you, use your favorite search engine. Even if you already have a favored wholesale supplier, this approach can be helpful if you are looking for hard-to-find materials or specific brands.
• Manufacturers - If you are looking for a specific brand of fabric or upholstery tools and cannot find a supplier, you can contact the manufacturer for help. Some manufacturers use only a limited number of suppliers, so this can often save you time when searching.

Where to Find Really Cheap Upholstery Supplies

You can sometimes also find shops and factories that have gone out of business and purchase their unused inventory at a fraction of the original price. This will not provide you with a reliable wholesale supplier, but it can help to build up your shop's inventory.

Copyright Laure Justice

Heavy Duty Thread for Canvas

For the best result when sewing canvas, you need either a heavy-duty sewing machine or an industrial sewing machine capable of running heavy duty thread for canvas.

You might "get away with" using a lighter, standard-duty, light gauge thread when you sew canvas, but you can't really expect what you make to holdup and last if you do.

In the fabric store, or online store, look for heavy gauge thread. In the store, the coarse thread you need for sewing canvas should be with or at least near the upholstery, drapery, or canvas department.

Also, if you plan to use the canvas item you're making outside, look for UV protected thread, or it will rot away long before your canvas wears out.

One final tip for sewing with heavy gauge thread: Use a large gauge sewing machine needle.

How to Sew Coated Polypropylene Fabric Without Breaking a Household Sewing Machine

It's possible to sew coated polypropylene on a regular-duty sewing machine, though I don't recommend doing it frequently because it is hard on the machine.

1. No pins: Don't try to use sewing pins. Pins just poke holes in the coating layer and increase the chance your sewing machine needle will hit a pin and break while you're sewing poly-pro.
2. Think big: Use a big sewing machine needle, such as a denim needle. If you try to use a delicate needle, it's just going to break and could even damage your sewing machine.
3. Grab the tape: If you have too much trouble keeping poly-pro layers together, use heavy-duty packing tape and sew right through it. Just have some acetone (nail polish remover) or rubbing alcohol handy to clean the needle if you do this, because it gets sticky.
4. Flatten layers completely before sewing: Don't let the seams flap both ways because you will hit thick spots if you do, and will most likely break your needles.
5. Brace yourself: Sewing coated polypropylene on a regular duty sewing machine, hold on tight. Sewing this fabric is the seamstress's version of driving on ice. The coated material slides out of control quickly, especially when you run it through a regular sewing machine. You really need a walking foot sewing machine for this if you plan to make a habit of sewing polypropylene fabric.
6. No rubbing: Don't let your fingers slide along the cut edge of the poly-pro. Think triple-width paper cut if you do - well - you won't have to think it because that's what you'll have - and yeah, it hurts.

How to Patch a Polypropylene Awning

Polypro Awning photo credit: kevinrosseel from morguefile.com

Polypropylene is a durable material, but it can get holes in it. When it is an awning that has a hole, anything stored under that awning is going to get wet.

Also, exposure to wind and rain are going to turn a tiny hole into a big, frayed mess if you do not do something to stop it.

If you have any modern polypropylene feed sacks and a heavy duty sewing machine, you already have exactly what you need to patch a torn polypropylene awning.

How to Do It: Polypro Patches Made Easy

Before you start cutting and sewing polypropylene patches on your awning, clean the awning. This will help keep grime out of your sewing machine's inner workings.

1. Cut the patch from an old feed-sack, making it at least two inches larger than the hole, all the way around the hole. If possible, match the feedsack color to the awning's color.
2. Place the polypropylene patch over the hole. You do not need to fold the edges of the patch under to prevent fraying because feed-sacks are coated and the coating prevents fraying.
3. Sew all the way around the patch, 1/4-inch from the cut edge. This will be awkward if the awning is large, so be patient and carefully work the excess polypro out of the way to avoid sewing through the wrong layer of fabric.
4. Use a stick of tent-seam sealant to coat the exposed stitching. Tent seam sealant kind of looks like a tube of lip balm and is available in stores that sell camping supplies as well as online.

Patching a damaged awning will not make it last forever, but it will get you through a season or two before you have to invest in a new one. 

How to Make a Zipper Work Easier

Old Zipper

Zipper sliders stick when fabric gets caught and when zipper coils become corroded, but you can make a zipper work easier so you do not have to force it.

Almost everyone who has worn a garment with a zipper, or used a bag with a zipper, has had that moment when the zipper is closing but it’s awkward and stiff, and then it sticks. What you do after that moment when the zipper first sticks can determine if you are going to break the zipper or save it.

You can damage a zipper that does not quite work right by forcing it to open or close, but there are ways to make a zipper work easier. You can jam a zipper if the fabric surrounding the zipper is too floppy. You will need to sew the fabric down to get it out of the way for this problem. Your zippers can also be difficult to open if the teeth or coils get corroded. To fix this, you need to treat the teeth or coils to make the zipper work easier.

The Sewing Notions You Need to Make a Zipper Work Easier

• Straight pins
• Hand sewing thread
• Hand sewing needle
• Scissors
• Toothbrush
• Distilled white vinegar
• Candle wax or bar soap

The Sewing Steps to Follow in Order to to Free Up a Stuck Zipper

1. Pull the zipper up and down slowly to see why it is sticking. If fabric is getting caught in the zipper pull, you need to sew the excess fabric down to make the zipper work easier. If the teeth or coils seem to be coated with something dry or sticky you need to treat or coat them to make the zipper work easier.
2. Spread the zipper edge out flat on the table if the problem is excess fabric, so you can see the places where excess fabric is in the zipper's path. Fold the excess fabric under and pin it down using the straight pins.
3. Thread the hand sewing needle and make a small knot, tying the thread ends together. Slide the needle's tip into the folded fabric, about 1/16 inch in, to hide the knot. Bring the needle tip out, catching about two strands of the fabric's fibers. Pull the thread snug.
4. Move the needle's tip across to the zipper tape, about 1/16 inch forward and catch about two strands of fiber on the zipper tape. Pull until the thread is snug again, but not tight. Repeat the 1/16 inch stitching until you reach the end of the folded excess fabric.

The Steps to Unstick a Zipper by Cleaning Zipper Teeth or Coils

1. Dip the toothbrush in distilled white vinegar if the zipper teeth or coils appear the be dry or sticky. Brush the vinegar into the zipper teeth. Let the vinegar soak in for about ten minutes, then dip the brush in vinegar and scrub again. Let the zipper teeth air dry.
2. Rub the hard candle wax or bar soap against the zipper teeth. Use firm pressure when you rub, but do not rub so hard the wax or soap crumbles or gets on the fabric. Gently pull the zipper's slider up and down two or three times to spread the wax over the zipper teeth.

Originally published on Suite101.

 

 

 

 

 

Box X Stitching on Belt Loop of Epi Pen Belt Case

More on the Epi Pen belt case I'm working on.... I used the box x stitch to attach the belt loop because it is considered one of the strongest stitches.

Epi Pen Belt Case

Hi, This is the prototype Epi Pen belt case I'm working on... I'm open to suggestions if you have anything you would like to say about it.

Padded Smartphone Bag with Inhaler Pouch

Check out my latest smartphone bag prototype. I'm still trying to perfect the design.

This pouch has an inner padded pocket to protect a smartphone, a puffed out side pouch to hold an asthma inhaler or set of keys, and a third pouch to keep your money, is, or credit cards.

To finish it off, I added swivel clips to hook on belt loops. If I get the pattern right, I'll offer a detachable strap as an option.
I also reinforced the bottom and side panel for extra durability.

How to Clean a Serger

Brother Serger

Cleaning your serger will be easier if you remove the thread, but threading a serger can be a challenge, so I'm going to give you a tutorial that lets you clean around the thread. It takes a little extra patience and a steady hand, but it is possible. If you start to get frustrated when following this tutorial on how to clean a serger, take a short break and then come back refreshed to finish cleaning your serger.

What You'll Need:

• A fine tipped artist's paintbrush
• A bowl of water with a drop of dish detergent in it
• Paper towels or a soft cloth
• Sewing machine oil (optional)

Instructions:

1. Clean the outer case of the serger first.
2. Dip the paintbrush in the water and rub the wet brush against the most heavily soiled areaas on the machine. Slide the brush under the threads as needed, without lifting up or moving the threads.
3. Let the water soak into the soiled areas for about three minutes, then fold a paper towel and wipe the moisture and grime away. Slide the point of the paper towel under the threads the same way you did the paintbrush.
4. Clean the entire outer case first, then open the cover to expose the serger's  loopers.
5. Dry the paintbrush before touching the loopers.
6. Gently brush and flick loose thread and fabric fibers out of the looper area of the machine.
7. If you get any water on the shiny metal loopers, apply a drop of sewing machine oil and use the brush to spread it around so it covers the metal that got wet. This is to prevent the wet spot from causing your loopers to rust.
8. Check the threading to make sure nothing came loose, then replace the lower looper cover.

Tip: If you have access to an air compressor or a can of that compressed air that computer techs use to clean computers, you can blast the fibers out of the looper area instead of brushing them out. Either way will work, but blasting it with air is more likely to pop threads out of the loopers tan gentle brushing is.

I Forgot to Add Serger Looper Adjustment How-to and Serger Cleaning How-to Articles

I will try to get on here tomorrow and add at least one of these how-to's, and the other by the next day. If I forget and you need the info, drop me an email at LaureJ@consultant.com to remind me to get it in gear and get them on here.

These are my planned titles:

• How to Clean a Serger
• How to Adjust the Loopers on a Serger

I might also add a couple of things specific to a Singer MerrittLock Serger; like the other, drop me  a note if you need the info before I get it posted.

How to Avoid the Threat of injury When Operating an Industrial Sewing Machine

Powerful industrial sewing machines can sew through heavy material other machines cannot touch, but they can be dangerous if you do not use them right.

 

Industrial Sewing Machine Safety

Driven by a powerful 1/2 to 3/4 horse motor, the needle on an industrial sewing machine can slam down with a hammer-like force up to 5,000 times per minute. High-speed powerful impacts mean operators need to be careful when sewing or maintaining the machines in order to prevent injury. Wearing personal protective equipment, or PPE, and paying attention to the rules for safely operating these high-speed sewing machines can help keep you injury-free.

Industrial Sewing Machine Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

Industrial sewing machine operators should wear two main types of personal protective gear: eye protection and hearing protection. When an industrial sewing machine is running full-speed, the needle gets hot from the friction created by rapidly piercing the fabric. Wearing eye protection can save an operator's eye-sight. If the hot needle hits a thick spot in the material, the needle can shatter, sending potentially blinding metal shards flying toward the operator.

If only one industrial sewing machine is running in a room, hearing protection is usually optional. If several industrial sewing machines are running at the same time, as in a factory setting, the volume can damage a machine operator's hearing. Wearing a comfortable pair of foam ear plugs or head-set ear protection is less costly than the loss of your hearing.

Safe Industrial Sewing Machine Operation

Some rules for operating an industrial sewing machine also apply to household sewing machines, such as: do not leave the power on when the machine is not in use, and do not let small children or animals play around the machine when the power is on. If the power is on, and the treadle accidentally gets pushed down, the best you can hope for is a jammed machine and the worst is someone getting seriously injured.

The next rule, possibly the most obvious but also the most important, is watch where you are sewing and do not sew your fingers. If the machine has finger guards in front of the needle, do not remove them, even if they are inconvenient to work around. If the machine does not have finger guards, see about getting them installed. They are less expensive than the medical bills involved with an injury caused by an industrial sewing machine.

Industrial Sewing Machine Safety Tips

As an industrial sewing machine operator, you have the responsibility to keep yourself safe. If you do not wear the necessary protective gear, you are the one who will feel the pain when something goes wrong. If you work for someone else and they do not provide eye or hearing protection, you should either ask them for the needed PPE, or pick it up yourself as soon as possible.

If you leave the power on when working on the machine, or you let your fingers get under a moving needle assembly, you will be the one hurt. Watch ahead when you are sewing and slow down before you hit thick seams or material. Keep yourself and others safe by turning the machine off at the switch or unplugging it when it is not in use.

Copyright Laure Justice. Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally published on Suite101.

Transform Old Pants into a Shoe Tote Bag

If reuse, recycle, restyle is your mantra, you can transform an old pair of pants into a shoe bag with compartments.

Make a Shoe Tote Bag to Protect Your Shoe Investment

The legs of an old pair of pants can be restyled into a compartmented shoe bag, saving the expense of buying a new tote bag for shoes. Reusing the fabric also keeps a little bit of excess garbage out of the landfill.

Make sure the shoes slide inside the pants leg before cutting the pants. You will get the best result from pant legs made of lightweight fabric, but you can use pant legs made of thicker materials, such as denim, if desired. If you use pant legs made of heavy fabric, you will need a heavy duty sewing machine.

What You'll Need to Make a Compartmented Shoe Bag

• 1 old pair of pants
• Straight pins
• Shoes
• Ruler or yardstick
• Fabric marking pencil or tailor's chalk
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• 4 grommets and grommet tool
• 1 yard drawstring (estimate)

How to Make a Shoe Tote Bag

1. Turn the pants right side out. Line up the side and inner seams so you are looking at a side view of the pants. Make sure the hems are straight.
2. Fold the center front and center back of the hem 1 inch inward. You can just tuck or push the fabric in with your fingertip. The fold will allow a little bit of extra ease, or space, when you put your shoes in the bag.
3. Pin the pants legs closed and the folds together, right on or just above the hems.
4. Place one of the shoes on top of the pants, 3 inches from the pinned, hemmed end.
5. Measure 6 inches past the heel of the shoe and make a mark, using the fabric marking pen. Then place the yardstick or ruler horizontally across the pant legs and draw a straight line. For most pants, you will only need to mark the top layer of fabric. Set the shoe aside.
6. Cut the pants legs off, using the scissors and following the drawn line.
7. Sew the folded hems together, through all of the layers of fabric. If the material is too thick to go through your machine, sew just above the hem where the material is thinner. Remove the pins.
8. Set the sewing machine to make a finishing stitch, then sew around each cut leg opening. Fold the edges under 1/2 inch. Set the machine back on a straight stitch. Sew around the leg openings again, stitching right on top of the finishing stitches.
9. Fold the center front and center back folds the rest of the way up the legs, until you reach the top edge. Pin the inner folds of fabric on each side together.
10. Sew the center front 1/4 inch from the folded, pinned edges, starting 3 inches from the closed-off hemline. Do not sew through the outer folded layers that are not pinned. Repeat on the center back.
11. Position a grommet on each outer section of fabric just below the top, finished edge. Center the grommets in the outer parts of the fabric. Use the grommet tool to set the grommets.
12. Feed the drawstring through the grommets, and tie the ends together in a tight knot.

More than four grommets can be used for a tightly closed bag, but four is the minimum you can use without the shoes falling out. Fewer grommets will leave a droopy, uneven opening.

Copyright Laure Justice. Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally Published on Suite101.

Tips for Starting an Eco-Friendly Tote Bag Business with Low Start Up Costs

If you are dreaming of turning your sewing hobby into a business but don't have  tons of cash to invest, you can still make your dreams a reality with a bit of extra ingenuity. You can reduce the start-up cost of an eco-friendly tote bag business by using unconventional material sources.

 

If the environment is an important issue for you and the weak economy is making it hard to find a job, consider starting your own green tote bag business. Starting your own earth-friendly business is a way to be kind to the planet while earning money. Taking advantage of unconventional fabric sources lets you get started without investing a large amount of money.

Low Material Costs With Unconventional Fabric Sources

Let's start by considering ways to save money on materials. One way is to buy fabric wholesale, in bulk quantities, but when getting started, you might not want to invest in buying rolls of wholesale material. Also, using unconventional fabric sources is more eco-friendly than buying new materials at wholesale prices.

With the current popularity of recycling and up-cycling, you can cut your material costs by scouring thrift shops, auctions, and garage sales. Look for garments and other textile items that are in good condition. If you opt for garments as your fabric source, look for large and plus-sized clothes, but don't rule out smaller sizes. Smaller garments can provide unique fabrics to use for trim pieces, such as straps and pockets.

How to Prepare the Fabric

Since you are making your eco-friendly shopping totes to sell, you will need to spend a little extra time making sure the fabric is in pristine condition. Stains and weak spots in the fabric will leave you with a bad reputation and unhappy customers. Check the garment's care tag and launder according to the directions provided.

Cut the fabric right along the seam lines. Also, snip the threads holding buttons and zippers in place, unless you want to leave them for decorations. You can save the buttons and zippers for other projects, or sell them in bulk to other seamstresses. While traditional shopping totes do not have buttons or zippers, you can add them as design features as desired.

Make Some Sample Bags

Now that you have some inexpensive fabric ready to make your totes, it's time to get creative. You can buy a pattern to use for making your tote bags, but copyright laws limit your use of purchased patterns. Your best option, if you want to get started without spending a lot of money, is to design your own tote bag or enlist the help of a skilled sewing friend.

When you make up your first few tote bags, take notes on how long it takes to make each bag. Also, note any problems you run into, regarding your pattern's design and how you solved the problem. The notes will help you perfect your design and steam-line your manufacturing process. It will also help with employee training when you get ready to hire a helper.

Marketing and Selling Your Shopping Totes

You have a lot of options when you get ready to sell your bags. One option is to visit local businesses, show them your samples, and ask if they are willing to carry your tote bags for their customers. Be prepared to answer questions about:

• How much you charge per bag
• Discounts for large orders
• The number of bags you are able to deliver in a given time period
• Your willingness to sell the bags on consignment

The Internet also offers a number of selling options. Auction sites, such as eBay, online selling sites such as Etsy and eCrater, and setting up your own blog or website to showcase your work are all viable web options.

Disclose Fabric Sources

No matter how you market and sell your totes, be very clear with potential customers about your fabric source. If you are not specific, customers will assume you are using new fabric unless you tell them otherwise, and they will feel deceived to find out the material is recycled or up-cycled after they have purchased from you.

Describe your fabric sourcing choices in a manner that stresses the eco-friendly value. You are keeping these textiles out of landfills. Water is not being wasted to grow cotton to make new material. Petroleum is not being wasted to manufacture synthetics or to ship the materials. Finally stress that recycling materials keeps your costs as a manufacturer down, and that the savings are passed along to the customer.

Using unconventional fabric sources to make green shopping totes is a win-win-win situation. You win because you can operate your business with low overhead costs. Your customers win because they get unique tote bags they can feel great about using. Finally, the earth wins because waste is practically eliminated when unconventional fabric sources are employed.

Copyright Laure Justice. Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally Published on Suite101.

Tips for Breaking Into the Fashion Design Industry

If you love sewing and maybe even creating your own designs, a career in fashion design might be the perfect career for you. Read on to learn more about how to train for a career in this competitive field.

Where to Get Fashion Design Training: Fashion design is a highly competitive field, with little growth expected. Finding the right fashion design training increases your chance of success.

Pool-side Fashion Show with Band

According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics the majority of fashion designers in the US are employed in California and New York, with the main face-to-face training opportunities based in those locales. With only about 23,000 coveted jobs to go around, you need three things to succeed: a good eye, artistic talent, and the best training possible.

Face-to-Face Design Schools

If you live near one of the face-to-face fashion design schools, or if you are in a position to move, attending is a way to quickly get hands-on training complete with professional feedback. The Art Institutes and The Academy of Couture Art are two design schools offering a campus experience.
Most employers look for designers with either an Associate's or a Bachelor's degree. Depending on your interests, pick a degree in either fashion design or pattern design. Many of the core classes will be the same, so it is possible to get started even if you don't know exactly which design field you prefer.

Internships

Some designers accept internships as a way to learn the trade. An internship provides hands-on training that can be combined with a formal education, or can stand alone as experience in the field. If no big clothing manufacturers are in your immediate vicinity, experience can be gained working in retail clothing stores or tailoring shops.

Distance Education in Fashion Design

While many students prefer face-to-face learning, if you are not in a position to attend on-campus courses, distance learning is a viable option. Note that it takes more effort on your part to succeed in distance courses, but if you put forth that extra effort it will pay off in the end.

An Internet search will provide links to several fashion design distance, or correspondence, courses. Take the time to read through the information about each course. If you plan to complete a degree, so you can advance in this field, make sure you choose an accredited school.

Accreditation

Approximately 300 post-secondary institutions with art and design programs are accredited by the National Association of Schools of Arts and Design. Basic art and design courses are normally a prerequisite for entering a design degree program.

Attending an accredited academy holds more weight with some employers. It just gives you a little more credibility in the professional world. It also means your credits will be more transferable than those from a school lacking accreditation, if you decide to further your education at a different school at a later time.

Jobs for Fashion Design Degree Holders

Examples of jobs held by trained fashion designers include lead designer, clothing designer, foot-wear designer, and accessory designer. Self-employed designers sometimes combine design training with business or marketing training.

If becoming a fashion designer is your dream, getting the best fashion design training available to you is, along with a good eye and artistic talent, the key to success in the field.

Source List:

• Bureau of Labor Statistics
• National Association of Schools of Arts and Design

Copyright Laure Justice. Contact the author to obtain permission for republication. Originally published on Suite101.

Adjusted the Loopers on My Serger Today

Serger

One of the loopers on my serger, the one closest to the body of the serger, was loose and wobbling around like a child's loose tooth. I got the screw tightened but it still would not stitch.

After that, I kept putting it off, thinking I would rather take my serger to my sewing machine mechanic than try to do it myself.

Anyway, today, (soon to be yesterday) I decided I needed my serger and could do it myself. I got out my allen wrench kit and tried different wrenches until I found the right size - it took a size 2 - metric.

I could not get that little screw to turn so I got help to loosen the screw. Then, I just slowly worked the hand crank so I could watch the positioning of the looper as it passed the needle.

When it hit the sweet spot, I tightened the screw with the size 2 allen wrench and rethreaded the beast. It stitched perfectly, and I saved the cost of a trip to the sewing machine repairman and a week without my machine.

The serger in the picture is not mine - it's a MorgueFile picture.

Recycling Blue Jeans

I like to save clothes when they wear out and make them into new things, like water bottle holders, and tote bags, but I just ran across another way to recycle denim blue jeans, so I thought I would share for those of you not interested in restyling old jeans into new things.

Cotton

Even if you don't use every scrap of your old clothes, you can still be earth-friendly and keep your old jeans out of landfills.

Cotton: From Blue to Green recycles old denim into Ultra Touch (TM) house insulation. With a lot to recommend this type of recycling and insulation, Ultra Touch (TM):

• is environmentally safe
• is non-itch (as someone allergic to fiberglass I especially appreciate this feature)
• is non-carcinogenic
• is formaldehyde-free
• is free of chemical additives
• provides exceptional thermal performance
• provides 30% more sound absorbing than fiberglass
• contains an active mold/mildew inhibitor (it is one of the only insulation products that does this.)

Interestingly, it does not appear the everyday person can go buy this premium insulation, because it goes to Habitat for Humanity and community projects can apply for a grant of this blue insulation.

So, if you are not in the mood to recycle, restyle, or upcycle your old jeans, you can always feel good about donating them to be recycled into this eco-friendly insulation.

Sewing Mess Ups

Sewing Supplies image courtesy of Clarita and MorgueFile.

What do you do when you are sewing and you MESS UP?

For me, it depends on the size of the mess up and the amount of stress I am under before the mess up. Sometimes I can keep my cool and figure out what to do with no major upsets. Other times, I ball up what I'm making, stick it in a bag, walk around muttering for a while, and eventually go back to the project. Sometimes it takes months to go back to it, other times just a few minutes.

Something about walking away gives me a chance to calm down and think about something else. Then, when I'm thinking about something else, the solution to fixing the sewing mistake comes to me.

Anyway, after that vague intro, I'll just say my most recent sewing project turned into a big mess up, and I need to get back to my muttering and doing something else so I can figure out how to fix this mess.

So, anyway, what DO you do when you are sewing and you mess up? I would love to hear your ideas if you have a moment to share.

Mid-May Hello

Material image courtesy of jdurham and MorgueFile.

Hi Everyone, I'm sorry I haven't been posting much here lately; had a few things to finish up. As far assewing, most of my recent projects have been repair work... patching jeans, patching an awning, nothing too fun or creative.

I have some projects underway, and read a tutorial on making a ramen noodle package into a change purse (too cute) that I might try.

What have you been working on?

Facts about Vintage Buttons

Vintage buttons can add the perfect touch to an outfit, or they can be part of a fun button collection. Join me for a quick tutorial on buttons through the ages.

Vintage Buttons image courtesy of Cohdra and MorgueFile.

Shell Buttons

The earliest button ever found is about 5,000 years old and was carved from a shell. It’s a little hard to imagine the garment that sported the little treasure, probably some sort of animal hide crafted into a jacket or pants., though it is not actually known if the shell button was used for clothing or some other purpose. Shell buttons remained popular through the ages, and are still used in fashion design today.

Bone Buttons

Bone buttons have been in use almost as long as shell buttons, helping to keep early humans warm and safe from the elements, and are still commonly used today. Like buttons made of shell, the use of bone buttons has remained a constant part of human culture through the ages.

Modern Vintage Buttons

The terms modern and vintage might sound completely opposite, however it describes the advent of functional, holed buttons. These are the buttons most likely to be collected by button collectors. They can date back as far as 13th century Germany, 17th century Japan, or any time period in between. Usually, though, to be considered vintage, they need to be at least twenty years old.

Vintage button collectors enjoy owning, displaying, and occasionally even using, classic and heirloom buttons made from anything from shell to metal to glass and even plastic.

You can read more about the history of buttons and vintage buttons at:

• Gone to Earth
• Collectors Weekly

Baby and Clothing Project Books: Review

I'm popping in tonight to share a link to writer Connie Krochmal's Suite101 review of three sewing books:

• Crazy Patchwork-Using Water-Soluble Stabiliser by Jeannette Knake
• Nursery Stitch by Rebecca Shreeve
• How to Use, Adapt and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan

If you are interested in any of these three topics, I highly recommend checking out the review of these books, as well as Connie's other sewing articles on Suite101.

Quilting Tool: Quilting Ruler with Non-Slip Backing

Crooked cutting means crooked seams, and your finished quilt can only look as good as your cutting allows. You can make sure you cut quilt fabric evenly by using a quilting ruler with a non-slip backing. The backing helps the ruler stay put, so it won't slide if you jiggle your hand a bit while cutting.

Photo credit: jjulian812 from morguefile.com

Details About Quilting Rulers

Quilting rulers do not look like the foot-long rulers you probably used in school. They are kind of like a hand-held grid mat, marked or gauged with different shapes and varied measurements.

While you can get metal or wood versions of this handy tool, if you work with a lot of color variations, look for a clear acrylic ruler with light markings on one side and dark markings on the other. This way, you only need to purchase one ruler.

If you do not enjoy math calculations, look for a ruler pre-marked with a 1/4" seam allowance.

If you end up with a ruler that does not have non-skid backing, which will be the case if you get a double-sided ruler, you can pick up non-skid adhesive discs or pads to stick on your quilting ruler as needed.

While not taking the very top spot of importance, a good quilting ruler will prove to be one of your most valuable tools as a quilter, and will serve you well through making many beautiful quilts.

Quilting Terminology: What is Bearding?

Have you ever seen a quilt that has a fuzzy appearance because the batting is poking through the surface of the fabric? The batting sticking out is what quilters call bearding. If the batting color is close to the color of the fabric, it might not show very much. If, however, the batting color varies widely from the fabric color, it really stands out.



Quilt image courtesy of Click and MorguFile.

How to Prevent Bearding
Bearding is most likely to occur if you make your quilt with loosely-woven fabric or if you use a needle that is too big.

• If you are quilting with loosely-woven fabric, either make sure to either use batting that matches the fabric or place a layer of light-weight lining between the fabric and batting.
• Also, make sure you are using a quilting needle that is the appropriate gauge for your project, so you are not making holes large enough for the batting to escape.

How to Get Rid of Quilt Bearding

Short of taking your quilt apart and replacing the bearded sections, you can't really get rid of bearding. That is obviously an impractical approach in most situations. However, you can improve the appearance of a bearded quilt by using a fabric shaver to remove most of the fibers that stick out.

Denim Water Bottle Bag with Pocket and Carabiner Loop

My morning project was making a drawstring water bottle bag from the leg of an old pair of jeans. I added a pocket that closes with a nylon strap carabiner loop. (I got it dirty already, by testing it out while doing yard work.)

How do you think it will look if I make one out of a polypropylene feed sack? I think it will be cute, but the drawstring will be tricky. If it works out I'll be back with a snapshot.

How to Make a Flat-Felled Seam by Hand

A flat-felled seam is durable with a double line of stitching and completely encloses the fabric's cut edge. It is commonly used on jeans and is also sometimes used on baby clothes. A sewing machine works best for this type of seam, but if you don't have access to a sewing machine you can make this strong and attractive seam finsh by hand-sewing.

Practice First

Learning a new seam finish, especially when hand sewing, is best done on fabric scraps before attempting a garment.

• To get started, use 2 rectangle pieces of fabric, about 3"x5".
• Place the squares with the wrong sides together and long sides lined up evenly.
• Use a threaded hand sewing needle to sew a line of back-stitching 5/8" from the fabric's raw edge, pick one of the long edges to get the most practice.
• Open out the body og the rectangle fabric.
• Slide the tip of a pair of scissors between the layers of the 5/8" seam.
• Trim off the top layer of seam fabric 1/4" from the seam.
• Wrap the longer, uncut seam fabric around the newly cut shorter edge and finger press it down flat against the body of the rectangle fabric.
• Use pins, if you prefer to sew with pins, or just work the fold into place as you sew if you do not enjoy using pins.
• Hand sew a scond line of back-stitching about 1/16" from the folded edge that wraps around the cut shorter edge.
• If you used pins, go ahead and remove them as you sew so you don't end up poking your hand.

Make Something

• When you are confident that you have this seam finish down, pick a pattern and some fabric and cut everything otu according to the pattern's directions.
• Instead of putting the fabric pieces together with the wrong sides out, put them together with the right sides out.
• Sew the seams in the order the directions recommend, just take the time to hand sew the flat-felled seam finish you practiced on the fabric scraps. Expect it to take a lot longer than sewing with a machine.

Flat-felled seams create a sturdy seam and they provide a polished, finished look that's hard to beat. For more information, feel free to leave a comment below or use the contact form provided.

Content prepared by Laure of Justice Writing Service.

National Quilting Day: in March

If you enjoy quilting, a day-long holiday has been named in your honor. National Quilting Day. So get out your quilt squares and needles and sew the day away - if you feel like it.

With this year already flying past, I want to share some information with you about National Quilting Day. It will be here and gone before you know it.

This quilter's holiday falls on the third Sunday in March and you can read more about it and its history here.

What Are e-Textiles?

Are you looking for a new type of sewing project or maybe a way to teach electronics to children?  E-Textiles might just provide the answer to your need for a new sewing challenge - or a unique lesson plan.

I'll give you the short description of e-Textiles (clothes or bags that flash or sing, pretty much anything textile with added lights or sounds) and then refer you to a great article called What Are e-Textiles? Get Started With Soft Circuit Electronics.

The article even gives you some tips on where to search for the items you'll need to try your own e-Textile project.

Convenient & Cool Sewing Gizmos: Mini Iron for Quilting and Tailoring

One of the most important lessons you pick up when learning to sew is that it's beneficial to follow each step. Ironing is an easy step to skip, but skipping it will show in your finished garment or any kind of sewn project.

Mini irons offer the convenience of a an easy-to-grab iron while avoiding the bulk and the occasional tediousness of a traditional iron.

Clover Mini Iron for Quilting and Tailoring

Mini Iron

A mini iron is simply a tiny version of a traditional iron. They are the perfect size for pressing a seam on a garment or when quilting.

They also slip nicely into delicate corners and are perfect for working around trims.

As far as disadvantages, well, they're small, so while one can be used to press a large item, the size makes them less than ideal for pressing entire garments.

Clover Brand Water Soluble Fabric Marking Pencils

I usually recommend fabric marking pens for home sewing projects and custom designing fabric pieces, but really, the pen versus pencil debate ends up being just a matter of personal preference. Clover brand water soluble pencils work with every bit as much precision and they wash away without a trace.

Clover Water Soluble Marking Pencils

3 Pack

I like that this three-pack of water soluble pencils comes in three colors, so I can choose the color that stands in sharpest contrast to the color of fabric I'm working with, then it just washes away when I'm done with my projects.

If you would like to check out this product on Amazon, you can click the picture or look for it in the Stitching it Right Online Store tab found at the top of this page. You can also find these or similar fabric marking pencils in fabric stores and craft shops. Prices will vary, but I usually find the best deals on general sewing supplies on Amazon.

Convenient and Cool Sewing Gizmos: Fiskars 12-in-1 Sewing Tool

If I don't get sidetracked, I plan to post a series of short articles about some convenient and cool sewing gizmos I have been trying out. Some are more convenient than cool while some run heavier to the cool side.

My first pick is a handy, and kind of organized, cool gizmo. It's the Fiskars 12-in-1 Sewing Tool. In fact, it's really more of a case that holds some sort-of related sewing tools in one convenient, little almost pen-shaped case.

What I like about this tool is, simply, the convenience of having all these little tools together in a case that's actually a convenient size to grab in a hurry when I'm working.

The sewing tools included in the case are:

1. A needle threader (regular) 
2. A long needle threader
3. A magnifying glass
4. A measuring tape
5. A stuffing tool
6. A pair of thread cutters
7. A pair of sewing tweezers
8. A punch needle
9. A safety pin
10. A piercing punch (awl)
11. A knit picker
12. An 8x1 inch plastic storage container (the case counts as one of the twelve pieces)

Note: This is NOT a paid endorsement, I just want to share my experience with this tool since this is  ablog about sewing and I think this is a nice sewing tool. If you have a different opinion, or if you have tried this tool and share my opinion, I invite you to share through the comments box below or send me a note through the contact us link if you prefer to reply without leaving a comment on site.